How the Antique Business Can Recapture Gen X

Today, the antique business has a new problem: old customers. Boomers and their parents, who have been collecting antiques for decades, no longer have the room or the inclination to buy more antiques. Their Gen-X successors do not seem to care for antiques. "The trend is away from antiques", says Red Whaley, owner of an antiques business in Forney, Texas since 1968. "I think it skips a generation. You just do not want what your parents had". Attend any antique show in the US, and all you will see is a sea of silver hair and bald heads. This leaves antiques dealers in a quandary: their customer base is shrinking, sales are plummeting, and they are buried in inventory.

The shrinking customer base is just phase one of the problem. When millions of boomers start to downsize and the antiques they have been collecting for decades hit the resale market, prices will plunge as well. There will be an overabundance of supply, and very little demand. Boomers that bought antiques as an investment are in for a rude awakening. In many cases, they will not recoup their original investment.

The antiques trade has tried everything to hook new buyers: scotch tastings, seminars, door prizes, even handwritten invitations. Little progress has been made in capturing the pocketbooks of Gen X. Why are they not buying? I think that Richard Whaley, Red’s son, hit the nail on the head when he said: "it is more functional now. We sell a lot of (decorative) mailboxes".

Functional; that is the key word. I have often been told by Gen X'ers that they do not buy antique furniture because it does not fit the needs of modern technology. An antique flat-top desk has no place to run computer cords, store cd's or comfortably place a monitor and keyboard. Old wooden office chairs are not ergonomic and one cannot sit in them for hours at a time. Even starter apartments have walk-in closets that make armoires obsolete.

The twin essentials of furniture making have always been form and function, or beauty and usability. For boomers and their parents, furniture was for sitting, eating, or sleeping. Simple functions. For the Boomer antique collector, beauty of form lent an added dimension to the simple functions of furniture. Function was a given. Boomers bought because the Form was beautiful. For Gen X’ers, the opposite is true. For them, furniture provides a place to eat, sleep, sit, play video games, and sit for hours at a workstation for work or socializing. Function takes precedence over form. The furniture has to perform. Beautiful antiques that do not function well in the Gen X lifestyle are an impediment. Why would they buy them? For Gen X, buying decisions are made on the basis of performance, not beauty.

How, then, do we sell to Gen X buyers? We stop trying to sell beauty and investment as our primary sales pitches. This is easiest to do with accessories and occasional pieces. Sell function first, then beauty, then investment. Functionally, a lamp is a lamp. An antique lamp will work as well as a new lamp, plus it has the added benefits of being unique, beautiful, and a good investment. See what I mean? Start by selling function. You cannot use that approach with a roll top desk. It is not functional in terms of the Gen X lifestyle. What does that mean for your business? Re-evaluate your inventory. If an item is not functional for the Gen X buyer, liquidate it or you will soon find yourself with a store full of inventory you cannot sell. Start buying inventory with Gen-X functionality in mind, and eliminate anything that does not fit that profile.

Gen X buyers will not completely furnish their homes with antiques as their parents have done but the market for accessories and occasional pieces will continue to be strong. As an added bonus, these smaller pieces are easily shipped. That makes them ideal candidates for online selling, which is where Gen X does a lot of their buying anyway.

Seven Fatal Mistakes Consumers Make When Relocating

I continue to read horror stories from consumers about their bad experiences with moving companies. The refrain is always the same: the big, bad, moving company overcharged me, damaged my goods and will not pay up. Well, I have appraised moving damage claims for over 25 years, and I can tell you that the problem is not just the moving companies. Consumers invite problems, because they do not understand the moving process or the terminology. Consumers put more research into buying a new television than they put into being sure that everything they own is moved safely and affordably.

Typically, there are Seven Fatal Mistakes that consumers make when they relocate. A Fatal Mistake occurs when the consumer fails to take action to protect their own interest. These Seven Fatal Mistakes can be avoided. If consumer know where the hazards in the road are, they can be prepared for them when they come.

The purpose of this article is to point out the Seven Fatal Mistakes so that consumers can avoid them. At the conclusion, I will suggest a solution to the problems presented.

Fatal Mistake Number One is that consumers have no idea of the value of their belongings. Households are charged according to the weight of their shipment, the value of the shipment, the distance shipped, and what extra services are required. If you do not know what your household goods are worth and what they weigh, how will you know if you are being charged correctly?

Fatal Mistake Number Two is that consumers found their movers on the internet instead of asking for referrals. The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration estimates that only about a third of all internet moving brokers meet federal registration requirements. That means that two out of three moving companies are operating outside the rules. Yet, most people start their search for a mover online. Yes, there are many reputable companies to be found online. But, find your mover the old fashioned way: ask for referrals.

Fatal Mistake Number Three is that consumers do not research the company they hire. The moving industry is filled with rogue movers who will hijack your goods and hold them for ransom. There are many fly by night operators who simply change their name when the claims and fines pile up. There are companies with terrible safety records and lapses in insurance.

Fatal Mistake Number Four is waiting until the last minute to book your move. You should book your move at least eight weeks in advance, six weeks at a minimum.

Fatal Mistake Number Five is that consumers did not get everything in writing. The rule for a moving contract is this: if it is not in writing, it did not happen. Know what you are signing and what paperwork is needed. Any changes to the original service order must be in writing.

Fatal Mistake Number Six has been an issue on every damage claim I have ever appraised. Do not mess up on this one: check the movers inventory exception sheet thoroughly before signing it. The inventory exception sheet is written in code, so make sure the codes are explained to you before you sign it.

Fatal Mistake Number Seven is signing the delivery receipt before the truck is unloaded. Signing the delivery receipt is an admission that all your goods were received in good condition. You do not know that until the truck has been unloaded and everything has been inspected.

At the beginning of this article, I promised you a solution to these issues. Here it is: get a copy of the free fifty page book How To Protect Yourself From Moving Scams And Frauds. You can download your free copy at http://www.scribd.com/doc/21994228/How-To-Protect-Yourself-From-Moving-Scams-And-Frauds

Good luck with your move.

How To Collect Art Confidently

I have spent the last six months as a Fine Art Auctioneer aboard cruise ships sailing in Northern Europe, the Caribbean, and Alaska. The crowds at my auctions were a mix of veteran art collectors, newbie art collectors, the curious,the bored,and the lost. Some of them bought art, but most did not. Those that did not buy had a similar refrain: they were not comfortable enough in their knowledge of art to confidently make a purchase.

Yet, all of these folks had some sort of art on their walls at home. Perhaps not art, per se; what was on their walls might better be described as posters. Many were interested in collecting original art; they just didn't know how to begin. The purpose of this article is to offer a primer on how to begin to collect original art. We will accomplish three things: 1. You will understand the relationship between the artist, the medium and the price; 2. You will have an understanding of your current art collection, and how to go to the next level; 3. You will know how to safely and confidently expand your art collection.

To collect art confidently, you must know four things: 1. Who is the artist? 2. Is the work original? 3. How rare is the artwork? 4. Where did the work come from? Let us examine each of these points in greater detail.

The price of an artwork is impacted the most by the name of the artist. For the sake of this discussion, think of the artist as if he was a branded commercial product. Consider cars and watches. Which car is the more desirable brand; Mercedes or Ford? Which watch is more desirable, Rolex or Timex? What makes Mercedes and Rolex more desirable? The materials and workmanship that goes into the product. What makes an artist the best? Artistic skill, content, and creativity. Some artists are Rolex, and some are Timex. Who determines which artist is a Rolex and which is a Timex? Usually the critics decide. If the critics make a fuss about a particular artist, the buzz creates demand for the artists work. The physical constraints of producing a lot of one-of-a-kind artwork keeps the supply low. When demand outstrips supply, prices go up. You will pay more for a Picasso than you will for a similar LeKinff, because the supply of available Picassos is low, and his name is the stronger artistic brand.

Let us next consider what constitutes original artwork. The popular misconception is that the term original means one-of-a-kind, or the first one produced. That's not the case. The root of the word original is origin. Original artwork is any artwork that originates with the artist. The artwork does not have to be the only copy to be original; the term original applies to art prints as well as paintings. If an artist creates a limited edition print set, the set still originates with the artist and every print in the set is original artwork. When Marcel Mouly created a set of lithographs, his artistic intention was to create a lithographic set. Each color was laid onto a separate stone, and colors were laid from the stone onto the paper one color at a time. When he was finished, the stones were destroyed, and the paper prints remained. Mouly created the set. The set originated with Mouly. Each print in the set is original artwork.

The third factor in determining the price of an artwork is rarity. As mentioned above, supply and demand play a big role in determining the selling price of an artwork. The more rare a type of artwork is, the more expensive it will be. For purposes of collecting, there are four established levels of collectibles, based on the rarity of the type of artwork. I will designate these levels A, B, C, and D.

The A level of collectibles is one-of-a-kind artwork. Paintings, drawings, etc. that are one of a kind will bring the highest price relative to the particular artist. A painting by Picasso sells for more than a limited edition print by Picasso. A drawing by Norman Rockwell will sell for more than a Norman Rockwell print of the same drawing.

The B level of collectibles is relatively new to the art scene: embellished works. An embellished work starts out as a limited edition print, and then the artist over paints the print. Each over paint is slightly different, so the each is considered to be an original variation. Embellished works generally look like a painting and feel like a painting, but sell for considerably less than a one-of-a-kind painting.

The C level of collecting is signed and numbered graphic works, commonly called limited edition art prints. Most folks who are new to art collecting will begin with limited edition art prints. Art prints have been around for hundreds of years. The Japanese were producing art print woodcuts in the eleventh century, and the German Albrecht Durer's wood cuts and Rembrandt's etchings are unrivaled hundreds of years after the works were created. You will find five types of collectible art prints on the market today: woodcuts, etchings, lithographs, serigraphs,and giclees. It is outside of the scope of this article to discuss the techniques involved in each type of print. Suffice it to say that these print techniques are taught in major art schools all over the world and are accepted as original works of art.

The D level of collecting is open edition art, commonly called poster art. Poster art is created in print shops, not art studios. The posters are printed until no one buys them anymore. They usually sell for a few dollars unframed. Such prints are commonly found in department stores and furniture stores.

The fourth consideration in valuing art is provenance, or proof that the artwork is genuine. These days, it is easy to use technology to duplicate artwork on a large scale. It's tough to tell the fakes from the real thing. So, if you are buying original artwork it is important to know where it came from. Is there a bill of sale? Was it purchased from the artist himself, or from a reputable art dealer? Art passes from generation to generation. The artworks documentation should follow the artwork, so that it will be easy to establish that it is genuine. Without reliable documentation that proves the work is original, the value plummets. Provenance is to artwork what pedigree is to a dog. You expect to pay more for a dog with pedigree papers, and you should expect to pay more for artwork with provenance.

With the above information, you should be able to walk into an art gallery and get a sense of the relative value of the artworks. You know that one-of-a-kind works will be more expensive than prints, but that prints are still original artwork. You know that artists with the greatest demand bring the highest prices. A print by a famous artist may cost more than a painting by a less famous artist. It's all relative. Above all, your guiding consideration should be that you like to look at it.

Where To Find A Good Moving Company

The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration estimates that only about a third of all internet moving brokers meet federal registration requirements. That means that two out of three moving companies are operating outside the rules. Yet, most people start their search for a mover online. Yes, there are many reputable companies to be found online. The company you hire will most assuredly have a website. But, find your mover the old fashioned way: ask for referrals.

To find a good referral, start in your own neighborhood. Has anyone moved in lately? Call them or knock on their door; they will likely have a story to tell about their move. Call a local Realtor. They hear all the stories about who is good and who to stay away from. Many large real estate companies will have a Relocation Department that contracts with corporations to handle the real estate end of relocating employees. These Relocation Departments know who the good movers are. How about friends and family? Even if they have not moved recently, they may know someone who has.

If you cannot get a referral for a mover, my recommendation is to stick with one of the top six nationwide moving companies. I suggest this not because they are better than the smaller companies; I suggest this because they have claims systems and insurance in place in case something goes wrong. I found these companies to be efficient in the way their claims were handled. Having said that, be aware that since I was involved, that means there was damage to be assessed. It is important to know that if there is damage, you will not be swept under the rug. The top seven companies are (in no particular order) United Van Lines, Mayflower, Allied, North American, Global Van Lines, and Graebel. Most national moving companies work through a network of locally owned affiliates. The quality and efficiency of the local affiliates will vary. Claims will be centralized.

Remember, a well known name is no guarantee of performance. The bottom line is this: it does not matter what the name on the truck is. What matters is the quality of the people who show up to do the work and the efficiency and reliability of the system used to get your goods moved. The sad fact is, in America no one wants to be a mover. It is hard work and it does not pay very well. Consequently, movers do not consider the job a career. It is considered temporary employment until they find something better. Usually the only career professional involved in your move will be the driver. It is rare to find packers and movers that have uninterrupted years of service. Do not be fooled by a salesman who says that their people are well trained professionals. In the busy season, your movers will likely be part time or temporary workers who are long on attitude and short on skill.

Choose at least three companies from which to get an estimate, but do not make your decision yet. In a future article, I will show you how to check out the companies safety record and check the reliability of their price estimate.

How To Estimate The Weight Of Your Household Goods For Moving

Moving companies are often wrong when it comes to estimating the weight and value of your household goods shipment. Some estimators do a pretty good job, but there is such high turnover in the industry that you never know how experienced your estimator really is. If you make your contract decision based on price, you may be in for a big surprise when the driver hands you the final bill at your destination.

There are a few simple steps you can take to estimate the weight on your own. Following these steps will keep you in charge of the process and protect your rights in case you need to make a claim.

You want to start by sorting and inventorying your belongings. If this sounds like more work than you want to do, there are companies you can hire to inventory and value the contents of your home. No matter who does your inventory, you need to have an inventory done. Without it, you are at a disadvantage from the start. With it, you have a foundational document that can be used throughout your dealings with the moving companies.

Start by separating the valuable stuff from the ordinary stuff, the heavy stuff from the light stuff, and eliminate anything that the movers won't be moving. As you go, simply list what you have. The list will help you determine the weight and value of your shipment. The best way to proceed is to start upstairs and work your way down, or start down then up if you prefer. Move around each room in a clockwise direction and write down everything you see. Write down items on the floor first, and then items on the wall, and then items in cabinets. Stay consistent from room to room so you don't miss anything. Collections can be listed as collections, rather than individual pieces. When you are done with the house, inventory the shed and the garage in the same fashion.

You probably won't take everything in your house. Items that won't be moved fall into two categories: things you can't take, and things you won't want to take. The things you can't take include anything that could explode, start a fire, rot, or give off toxic fumes. Such items cannot be transported or placed into storage. These are the items that are most troublesome to deal with. You can't just throw them in the trash. Call your county department of the environment; they will tell you how to dispose of them. Have a plan for getting rid of these items. You don't want to leave a bunch of hazardous waste in your house. Realtors frown on that. Makes the house harder to sell. Items you don't want to take should be donated to charity, sold, or consigned to auction. Have the items picked up before you get your estimates. If it's not in the house, it won't contribute to an estimating mistake.

Once you know what you are going to move, there are three approaches to estimating the weight of your shipment. The first way is to take an educated guess. Add up the individual weights of the items on your inventory. For reference, I have provided a downloadable table of household weights on my website, http://www.waynejordanauctions.com . If you are moving an item that is not on my list, find an item of similar heft and use the weight of that item. Remember, you are looking for a god estimate, not an exact number. Add up all the individual items for your total weight.

The second way to estimate the weight of your shipment is to take a wild guess. I'm not kidding; this method actually works. I'm told that the average shipment of household goods will weigh about 40 pounds per item. Remember that some items will be boxes of small goods. Total the number of items on your inventory (including boxes) and multiply by 40. If you have 150 items on your inventory, your weight will be somewhere in the 6,000 pound range. Not impressed with this method? That's why I call it a wild guess. Still, if your wild guess came in at 6,000 pounds and your estimator gave you an estimate of 3,000 pounds, wouldn't you want to know why?

The third way is illegal, so use it at your own risk. There are household goods weight calculators online. Most of them are on government owned websites, military and GSA. They are supposed to be for authorized users. If you decide to use one, be sure to read the warnings and use good judgment. I only include this information here because I know that some of you will look online for your weights.

Beware if your estimator wants to give you an estimate based on cubic feet; i.e., how much space your shipment will take up in the truck. This is a useless number for billing purposes, since interstate carriers have to charge you based on weight and distance. Figuring cubic feet is useful, however, in determining whether you will be sharing a truck with another shipper, get a whole truck to yourself, or need two trucks. The chart on my website also lists the sizes of household items in cubic feet.

With your inventory done and your weight figured, the next thing you need to know is how to determine the value of your shipment for insurance purposes. Those considerations will be the subject of my next post.

You Can Pay Attention Or Pay A Higher Price But Either Way You'll Pay

About five years ago, I was asked to inspect a moving damage claim on Maryland's Eastern Shore. The movers' truck had flipped over on an exit ramp and rolled down a hill. When I arrived at the customer's home to inspect the damage, I found the worst mess I've ever seen on a moving claim. I found the metal sleeper sofa frame twisted and unusable, and wooden furniture crushed and broken. The most heart-breaking loss for the customer was the loss of her porcelain collection. She had packed her Hummels, Lladros and Limoges into one box, and when opened, there was nothing left but crushed and broken glass. The box was simply labeled fragile; there was no list of what was in the box. She could not remember, specifically, all the items in the box. She had no proof of ownership: no receipts, no photographs. Her claim was denied, on several counts.

The above story has lots of implications, but for now I want to use it to illustrate just one point: before you move, you have to know what you have. The moving company will charge you according to the weight of your shipment, the value of your shipment, the distance shipped, and what extra services you require. You will pay for insurance based on the value of your shipment. If you don't know what your household goods are worth and what they weigh, how will you know if you are being charged correctly?

Moving companies want your business. Are you likely to give your business to the mover with the highest price (all other things being equal)? Of course not. The salesman knows this, so he will quote you a competitive price. In the moving business, competitive price usually means fictional price. One of the most common complaints against moving companies is that the moving company will quote you a price prior to pickup, and double or triple the price upon delivery. Here's what actually happens in most of these cases: 1. The salesman underestimates the weight (due to lack of training, laziness,or greed)and prices his estimate accordingly; 2. The customer hasn't a clue if the salesman's weight guess is right or not and does not challenge the weight; 3. The customer isn't sure what their stuff is worth, so they take an uninformed guess; 4. The shipment is officially weighed, and the customer is not present at the weighing and does not request a copy of the weight ticket; 5. At delivery, the customer is presented with a bill based on the actual weight of the shipment and the published tariff of the mover (which is how the mover is supposed to charge) and the bill is much higher than the estimate; 6. The customer claims they are being cheated; 7. There is damage to the furniture, and the valuation is not sufficient to pay for the repairs.

What actually happened here? There are two possibilities: 1. The customer was not paying attention. The salesman was wrong, and the customer didn't know it. The customer did not know the weight or value of the shipment (this is simple to guess, if you know how). They did not know their rights in regard to confirming or challenging the charges. 2. The customer was not paying attention. The movers knew this, and they were crooks and had every intention of scamming the customer. Either way, the customer was not paying attention.

Before you call for estimates, you have to have a way to determine if you are being told the truth and being treated fairly. This is not the movers responsibility, it is yours. The first step in preserving your rights is to know what you have, what it's worth, and how much it weighs. On my website (http://www.waynejordanauctions.com) I make available a chart that will give you the weights and cubic footage of common household items. I also have an estate/tag sale pricing guide, which will give you approximate values for your furniture, appliances, and decor.

When you move, you can pay attention, or you can pay a higher price. But, either way you will pay.