How to Clean Antique Furniture

Grandma goofed? Imagine that your great-grandmother owned a lovely mahogany buffet. She loved the piece; she waxed it twice a year and dusted it regularly, which was the highest standard of care in her day. Would great-grandmother be shocked to discover that her regular waxing and dusting created the dingy, dirty finish that is on the buffet in 2010?

Antiques Are Covered With Old Wax and Dirt

You see, once you put wax onto wooden furniture, the only way to get it off is with a chemical remover. Each time the furniture is waxed, you put new wax on top of dirty wax and just move it all around. Every time the piece is dusted, some of the dust is picked up by the dust cloth, and some of it is rubbed into the accumulated wax. Over time, the finish begins to lose its' shine and becomes dingy looking. The once-beautiful buffet becomes covered with a layer of dirt and wax.

The Wax and Dirt Must Be Removed

The key to cleaning antique furniture is to remove the old wax and accumulated dirt without damaging the underlying finish. This can be accomplished with a little patience and few supplies which can be purchased at any hardware store. Simply re-waxing the furniture or applying furniture polish will only add to the problem; if you want the antique to glow, you must remove the old wax and dirt. Of course, this cleaning technique assumes that the furniture's finish is still intact; a finish with significant chipping and peeling should be refinished.

Your Antique Furniture Cleaning Kit

The first item needed is a solvent that will remove the wax without removing the furniture finish. The solvent for wax is mineral spirits, and mineral spirits will not harm any of the finishes commonly found on antiques. Next, you will need 0000 ("four-ought") grade steel wool; other grades are too coarse. In the refinishing trade, 0000 steel wool is known as a polishing pad; the longer you rub a finish with it, the shinier the finish gets. You will need Q-tips, absorbent rags, and a bucket of water or a sink. For the final polishing, you will use a burnishing cream. Liberon makes a fine burnishing cream that can be purchased from several online distributors.

The Cleaning Technique

Begin by pouring about a half-cup of mineral spirits directly onto the furniture's top. Using the 0000 steel wool spread the solvent over about a two-foot square area. Always rub in a straight line in the direction of the wood grain; rubbing across the grain will create visible scratches. Apply a slight downward pressure to the steel wool; your objective is to loosen the wax. Continue this procedure over the entire piece of furniture, using as much mineral spirits as is needed to keep the surface wet.

The drying time for mineral spirits is about 45 minutes. As the solvent dries, you will notice a dirty grayish film forming over the furniture. This film is the loosened, dirty wax that you have lifted from the surface. When the solvent has thoroughly dried, use a damp rag to wipe up the dried wax. Clean the rag often. Use Q-tips to get into corners and grooves.

Repeat the above procedure with mineral spirits and clean steel wool until no more waxy dirt dries on the surface. When the furniture is free of wax and dirt, apply the burnishing cream with a soft cloth, and rub until you are satisfied with the shine.

Ongoing Maintenance

To keep your antique furniture beautiful, polish it once a year with a good quality cream polish. If the finish is significantly worn and you have a few bare spots, treat the bare spots with a light coat of paste wax to protect the wood. Dust regularly. Never use spray polishes, dusting sprays, treated dusting cloths, or any product that touts its ability to make your furniture shine. Chances are those products contain silicone, and polishing your furniture with silicone is like spraying it with WD-40 lubricant. Proper care will keep your antique furniture looking beautiful for future generations.

Removing Water Rings From Wooden Furniture

Most water rings on furniture can be removed by spraying the affected area with a product called No-Blush, available online or at most commercial refinishing supply stores. Sometimes, water rings can be removed by denatured alcohol. In rare cases, it is necessary to bleach the affected area. The technique used to repair water rings will vary with the type of finish and the type of water ring.

Repairing Water Rings Requires Little Skill

Professional refinishers state that water ring removal is a common and simple repair. Often, their customers remark that if they knew how easy the repair was, they would have done it themselves. In truth, water ring removal does not take a lot of skill. What it does require, though, is a basic knowledge of finish chemistry and the nature of water rings. With such knowledge, water ring repair can be easily accomplished.

First, Understand the Nature of Furniture Finishes

A successful water ring repair begins with knowledge of the type of finish that is damaged. There are more than fifteen types of furniture finishes currently in use, but to repair water rings you only need to know two things: evaporative finishes and reactive finishes. Evaporative finishes are easy to repair, and reactive finishes are difficult to repair.

Evaporative finishes are a mixture of solids and a solvent. Once applied to wood, the solvent evaporates, leaving the solids to form the furniture finish. A characteristic of an evaporative finish is that it can be re-melted by its original solvent. The most common evaporative furniture finishes are shellac, lacquer, and wax.

Reactive finishes dry by chemical reaction; as drying occurs, the molecules in the finish bind together to form a hard and durable finish. Reactive finishes cannot be re-melted by their original solvent. Common reactive finishes are polyurethane, varnish, epoxies, and common house paint.

How to Tell What Kind of Finish is on Your Furniture

A reactive finish that is in good condition is extremely resistant to water rings. If you have water rings, chances are you have either shellac or lacquer as a finish, too much wax on your furniture, or a finish that is thin and worn. You can test a finish by rubbing an inconspicuous spot with a rag moistened with either denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. If finish can removed by the alcohol, the finish is shellac. If finish can be removed by the lacquer thinner, the finish is lacquer. If the finish cannot be removed by either of these solvents, you have a reactive finish.

The Nature of Water Rings

There are two types of water rings: blush rings and mineral rings. Blush rings are the most common and are caused by placing drinks or hot/moist items (like a pizza box) onto furniture. Blush rings are white, and appear as cloudiness in the finish.

Mineral rings are caused by leakage from houseplant pots. Water leaks through the pot and picks up minerals from the dirt, which is carried into the wood. Mineral rings are dark colored because minerals from the water have been absorbed by the cells of the wood. Such a ring is a permanent stain. The only way to repair mineral rings is to bleach them, which requires completely stripping and refinishing the furniture.

How to Repair Blush Water Rings

Blush rings are caused by moisture trapped in the finish. The repair can be made by softening the finish enough to allow the moisture to escape. Begin by making a smooth-surfaced ball out of linen or cotton. Moisten the ball with denatured alcohol and tamp it into the palm of your hand to be sure that it is simply moist, not wet. Carefully wipe the alcohol across the blushed area. Repeat as needed, but allow the alcohol to dry between swipes; drying will only take a minute or two. Ninety percent of the time, this repair technique will work. If it does not work, I suggest buying a can of No-Blush and spraying the damaged area lightly. No-Blush will chemically soften the finish, and contains a retarder to slow down the drying time enough to allow the moisture to escape.

Repairing water rings can be easily accomplished if one knows what kind of finish is damaged, how the ring occurred and what solvent will soften the finish.

The Art of Hanging Artwork

Did your last attempt to hang artwork leave your wall looking like Swiss cheese? Was your artwork’s placement less than ideal? If so, let me assure you that your next attempt to hang art will achieve a better result. There is an approach to hanging artwork that will place your art in the perfect spot, every time. As long as you have a general idea of where you would like the artwork to be placed, it’s simply a matter of finding the correct height and the correct center.

Decorating Considerations

A few preliminary remarks are in order. The scale of the artwork is important to its placement; save smaller pictures for smaller, narrower walls and use larger artwork for a large space. When placing artwork above furniture, the width of the artwork should not exceed three-quarters of the width of the furniture. Also, don't leave a lot of wall space between a sofa and an artwork. Anything higher than three to six inches will cause the eyes to focus on the wall rather than your artwork.

How to Determine the Correct Height for a Single Artwork

Properly placed artwork should be centered at eye level on the wall. If you stand in front of the artwork and look straight ahead, you should be looking directly at the center of the artwork. In your home, the only eye level that matters is your eye level; you are going to be the artworks primary viewer. If you share your living space with another adult, you may want to compromise on what constitutes “eye level”.

If you are hanging artwork in a public location, aim for eye level based on the average height in your area. Americans tend to be taller than the world average, so in America eye level is between 63-66 inches from the floor.

Hanging the Artwork

To find your eye level, stand facing the wall and look straight ahead. With pencil in hand, mark the spot on the wall that corresponds to your eye level. With a tape measure, measure the distance from the floor to your mark on the wall. We will call this mark A. Remember this number; you will use this eye level measurement every time you hang an artwork.

Next, measure the height of the frame, and divide your measurement by 2. The result of this calculation will give you the center point of the artwork. For example, if the frame was 26 inches tall, divide 26 by 2; the center is 13 inches. Add the center point measurement to your eye level measurement. For example, if your eye level was 63 and your center point was 13, measure upwards 13 inches from the mark at 63; this will make a mark at 76 inches. This mark indicates where the top of the frame will rest. We will call this mark B.

To find the correct wall hook placement, measure downwards from the top of the artwork’s frame to its hook clip or wire (be sure to pull the wire up before measuring). From the wall mark B, measure downward by the amount of your wire measurement. For example, if your wire was place at 3 inches below the top of the frame, measure down 3 inches from mark B on the wall. We will call this third mark C. Mark C is where you will put your nail or wall hook. If you are using a wall hook, be sure to place the curve of the hook at mark C.

Hanging a Group of Pictures

A group of artworks should be treated like a unit. Just as with a single artwork, the group should be centered at eye level. The easiest way to center a group of pictures is to begin by laying the artworks on the floor on top of butcher paper. Tape the edges of the butcher paper together so it can be picked up as one unit. When you find a suitable arrangement for your group, trace the outline of each artwork onto the butcher paper. To find the center of the butcher paper, draw an “X” diagonally from corner to corner. The center of the “X” is the center of your group of artworks.

Tape the butcher paper onto the wall with painter’s tape. Place the center of the butcher paper at your eye level marking; this will give you a center marking for your group. On the outline of each artwork, locate the center top of each frame. Mark the wall by poking through the butcher paper with a pencil; this mark will correspond to our wall mark B in the single artwork example above. Finally, measure each frame in your group to determine the measurement for the hanging hardware location. From each wall mark B, measure downward to determine your wall mark C, at place your wall hook or nail at mark C.

The above suggestions will take the guesswork out of artwork placement, and keep your walls from looking like Swiss cheese.

Emergency Scratch Repair For Wood Furniture

Few things are as disappointing as that first nasty scratch on a new piece of furniture. No matter how beautiful the piece is overall, all you see when you look at it is the scratch. Of course, it’s natural to believe that the scratch is the only thing your guests notice, too.

Short of having the whole piece refinished or professionally repaired, what can be done about an unsightly scratch? There are three touch-up techniques used by professional furniture refinishers that can be safely adapted for home use. The supplies needed are easy to find and the techniques are easy to learn.

Invisible to the Casual Observer

The goal is to repair the scratch well enough so that it does not draw attention to itself; you want the scratch repair to go unnoticed by your guests. In the refinishing trade, such repairs are said to be “invisible to the casual observer”. That is, close inspection will reveal that a repair has been made, but the otherwise the repair goes unnoticed.

A Natural-looking Repair

The easiest way to achieve a satisfactory repair is to mimic the natural markings in the wood grain. Mineral streaks, small knots, grain and color variations, sap pockets, and flecking give each cut of wood a unique personality. By matching the color of the grain or other markings instead of the overall color of the wood stain, a more natural look can be achieved.

Acrylic Artist Paint Technique

From your local art supply or craft store, purchase several small artist brushes, a small bottle of clear flat liquid acrylic, and four tubes of acrylic artist paint: raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber and burnt umber. With these four colors you can match almost any wood grain.

Using a piece of cardboard or a paper plate as a palette, squeeze out a small amount of the four colors onto the palette. To mix your color, start with either umber and gradually lighten the color by mixing in one of the siennas. A few minutes of trial and error will bring you to an acceptable color. The color will darken as it dries, so make your final color slightly lighter than what you want.

When you are satisfied with the color, use the smallest artist brush to apply the color to the scratch. If you make a mistake, wipe out the color while it’s still wet and try again. Artist acrylic paint is very forgiving. When the repair dries, paint over the scratch with the liquid flat acrylic. The flat sheen will reflect less light and make the scratch less noticeable.

The Crayon Technique

Colored wax repair sticks are commonplace; they can be found in almost any paint store. The problem with these sticks is that they only come in a few colors, and it’s difficult to find one that will match wood grain. This problem can be overcome if you remember that these sticks are just wax, like a Crayola crayon. Crayons come in many more colors, and work just as well. If your scratch is very deep, a crayon is your best choice for repair.

To make this repair, you will need the appropriate color crayon, an old credit card or piece of stiff plastic, a rag, some naptha (lighter fluid) and some 0000 grade steel wool.

Rub the crayon into the scratch; the goal is to slightly overfill. Using the credit card, scrape the wax level to the surface. To remove the excess wax from around the scratch, dampen the rag with the naptha, and clean around the edges. Naptha is benign and will not harm the finish. If you push too hard with the credit card and scuff the finish, remove the scuffs by buffing lightly in the direction of the grain with the 0000 steel wool.

The Touchup Marker Technique

Touchup markers by Minwax and Guardian are available at most paint stores. These markers are similar to Magic Markers but they are filled with furniture stain rather than ink. Like Magic Markers, touchup markers have wide felt applicator tips. Usually, these tips are much wider than a scratch, and tend to make scratches more obvious rather than less obvious.

To use these markers to the best advantage, rub the marker along the length of the scratch until the color fills the scratch. Then, quickly lick your finger and rub the excess stain from around the scratch. This technique will minimize the scratch and not make a mess on your furniture.

These three techniques will enable you to make acceptable repairs to most scratches on your furniture. You will still know where the scratch is, but chances are your guests won’t.

What Is A "Traditional" Funeral?

Funeral homes will generally recommend what they call a "traditional" funeral: embalming, casket, vault, public viewing, funeral ceremony, procession, graveside service and ground burial. The truth is, there is nothing traditional about this type of service. This sequence of events provides the highest profit to the funeral home. Funerals of this sort are a relatively recent commercial invention rarely practiced outside the US and Canada. Do not be swayed by the funeral director's plea to "do what's traditional". The typical American funeral has no roots in Christianity, Judaism, Islam, or any other religion. If the typical American funeral brings the family comfort and it is affordable, by all means do it, but do not feel compelled to do so.

There are as many ways to honor the dead as there are cultures, religions, and budgets. No religion or philosophy dictates how much money should be spent on a funeral, and no belief system encourages burdensome spending. An executor can choose simple arrangements such as cremation with no ceremony, or more elaborate ones, such as a long wake before a funeral. They can use no coffin at all, or the latest high-tech waterproof hermetically sealed product on the market. The body can remain in the home for private visitation, or be transported to a church or funeral home for public services.

The Funeral Home and the Cemetery Will Charge Separately.

Rarely is the cemetery also owned by the funeral home. In most instances, the grave site will have to be purchased separately, and payment made for opening and closing the grave. There is constant competition between cemeteries and funeral homes for sales of grave vaults and grave markers, A considerable sum can be saved by getting these two entities competing against each other for your business.

The Financial Impact of a Funeral on the Estate

Payment for funerals and cemetery services must be made prior to the funeral and interment. Payment can be made in cash, but most typically an assignment is made against an insurance policy. Since the funeral home is usually contacted before the cemetery, the funeral home may attempt to convince you that only one assignment can be taken against the insurance policy. If that were the case, all the goods and services needed for the funeral would have to be purchased through the funeral home. Fortunately, that is not the case. You can make as many assignments against an insurance policy as need to be made, up to the full amount of the policy. Ultimately, all the funeral expenses will be paid out of the estate proceeds. Other factors to consider when arranging a funeral are:

1)Cremation and scattering of ashes is legal anywhere in the US with permission of the landowner. Scattering ashes at sea requires a permit.

2)The Social Security Administration provides a burial payment of $255 to a surviving spouse or dependent child.

3)All veterans are entitled to burial in a national cemetery, a grave marker and a flag. Veterans interred in a private cemetery are entitled to a marker and a flag. Spouses and dependent children are also entitled to a lot and a marker, but only in a national cemetery. There will be no charges for opening and closing the grave

4)Embalming is not required by law. Embalming will not protect the public health or preserve the body for long periods of time.

5)Vaults are not required by law, but some cemeteries may require a basic vault to keep the grave from sinking.

6)"Protective" caskets do not preserve the body. Sealed caskets actually interfere with the natural dehydration and decomposition of the body.

An executor who is aware of the government rules regarding funerals and cemeteries will be well equipped to protect the interests of the estate.

Should I Choose A Funeral Service Or A Memorial Service?

The executor whose decedent has pre-paid his funeral and cemetery expenses is lucky indeed. When the decedent's wishes are made clear, there is no second-guessing by friends and family as to what the decedent "would have wanted". In truth, it’s rare that a decedent will provide the details of their funeral arrangements. When details are not provided, a family member or executor must step in to make the arrangements.

If you've never planned a funeral before, the choices available to you can be daunting. The commercial funeral industry has an intimidating presence. The somber and final atmosphere of a funeral home is not conducive to comparison shopping. Most first-time funeral shoppers are bewildered by the decisions that must be made at the time of death. Executors and next-of-kin are not sure of the "right" thing to do for the deceased. The emotional trauma of bereavement, lack of information and time pressures place the executor at a disadvantage in making funeral arrangements.

First and foremost, funerals are family matters. The religious traditions and family preferences may not be known to the executor, so the family should always have the first option to make the funeral decisions. However, when a family member is involved in the funeral, they may be emotionally distraught and have difficulty making decisions. The executor should be present to assist and to make sure the family does not fall prey to pushy funeral directors. When no family member "steps up to the plate" regarding the funeral, the executor should take charge. A word of caution to executors when family members refuse to be involved in the funeral: be sure to log all conversations. If a family member objects to the way you handled the final arrangements, you will have a clear record stating who you spoke with and what the outcome of the conversation was.

Funerals happen with such haste that many of the options available for final arrangements are not even considered. At its core, a funeral should accomplish two things: provide for the timely disposition of the body and commemorate the life that was lived. These two functions do not have to occur simultaneously. Do not feel pressured to have a service right away.

Two Types of Services

By separating the "disposition" and "memorial" functions of a funeral service, many more options become available to the executor. A funeral service usually takes place within days of death; the body is always present at a funeral. A memorial service is held without the body, and after disposition of the body. A memorial service can be delayed as long as is needed, to meet the needs of the family. Scheduling a memorial service for a future date enables out-of-town guests to take advantage of discount airfare and hotel rates. There is time for thoughtful planning when the "memorial" function is delayed.

The Executor's First Steps When Death Occurs

The decedent's directives for funeral arrangements are addressed in the Will. Generally, the Will gives the executor authority to hire the mortuary, purchase the cemetery plot, and organize the funeral service. Sometimes, the Will cannot be located. In cases where the decedent had no Will, the funeral will be long over by the time an executor is appointed. Each state has laws prioritizing the sequence of people who have the right to decide the details of the funeral service and how the body will be disposed of. Such laws are rarely enforced due to time constraints.

Consequently, it is usually the family that takes care of the funeral arrangements. At the time of death, no one is going to call the executor; they are going to call the next of kin. Even if the next of kin is the executor, they still have no official power to act in the capacity of executor until appointed by the court.

So, why, then, do executors need to concern themselves with funeral arrangements? Two reasons:

1)There may be no family, or a blended family with no clear lines of authority, and the executor will be expected to make the funeral arrangements

2)All reasonable funeral expenses are charged against the decedent’s estate so you, as executor, should be aware of them regardless of who actually makes the arrangements.

First Steps When Death Occurs

There are three death scenarios; each will require a slightly different approach. They are:

1. Anticipated Death At Home: Many people choose to die at home rather than at a hospital. If the death is anticipated, you will have time to assemble the Do Not Resuscitate papers and donor forms if they exist. You should know the name and phone number of the attending physician or Hospice nurse. The doctor or nurse will have to sign and file the death certificate within three days of death. If you do not have this information, call 911, and tell them that you need to have a death declared. Be aware that paramedics must make an attempt to revive the decedent, even if you are quite sure they are dead. The only way to avoid this is to have the Do Not Resuscitate papers available. If you have established a relationship with a funeral home, or have pre-paid for a funeral, simply call the funeral home and they will take care of all the details.

2. Accidental or Unexpected Death At Home: Call 911 to confirm the death and for advice on further steps. If you do not wish resuscitation attempt to be made, have the Do Not Resuscitate forms available. If the deceased was under the care of a doctor, call the doctor's office first; they may be willing to confirm the death. The body may be taken to a funeral home or hospital, or the paramedics may call the medical examiner to determine the cause of death. If the deceased had expressed convictions regarding autopsy, make this clear to the police and paramedics. The medical examiners office will release the body when the cause of death has been determined.

3. Death in a Hospital or Nursing Home: A physician will determine the cause of death. Ask to have the Death Certificate signed. If you have made arrangements with a funeral home, call them; otherwise, tell the hospital that you need time to make arrangements. The hospital will release the body to whomever you direct.

Anyone who provides a service at the time of death will charge you for their assistance. Often, the individual involved (the ambulance driver, the doctor, the funeral home) will not know what the specific charges are; they will refer you to "their office". Do not pay for services that you have not authorized or requested. Funeral homes are in business to sell services; they will seize every opportunity to sell you something. For decades, the funeral industry took advantage of the funeral consumer; so much so that in the late 1970's the Federal Trade Commission instituted what is known as the "Funeral Rule". The Funeral Rules states that funeral homes

1)must disclose in writing the prices for all goods and services and quote prices over the phone

2)must disclose in writing certain consumer rights

3)may not force a consumer to purchase more than is wanted

4)may not lie to consumers about state laws or make preservative claims for embalming and caskets

An executor will be most effective in performing his duties when he knows in advance where the will and other documents are kept, and has spent time discussing the wishes of the decedent before death occurs.

Three Ways An Executor Can Stay Out Of Trouble

Estate probate is a process. Your job as executor is straightforward: locate all the assets and debts, sell what property can be sold, use the money to pay all the confirmed debts, distribute what is left over, and file a tax return. By straightforward, I do not mean easy. The ease of settling an estate will depend on three things:

1. how much money is involved
2. the type and location of the assets and debts
3. how well the family gets along.

Executors and Estate Administrators (henceforth referred to only as executors) are not immune to the conflicts; indeed, they are often the target. But, executors take heart: you don't have to make every member of a quarrelling family happy. By your appointment as executor, you receive all legal authority to act on behalf of the decedent in matters pertaining to closing out the estate. Whether the heirs like it or not, the decisions are yours to make. You were placed in this position of trust by the court. Executors are held to what is known as the "reasonable person" standard: the executor owes the estate a duty to behave as a reasonable person would under the same or similar circumstances. Your obligation is to act honestly and prudently and execute your duties in a timely fashion. As long as you don't violate that trust, the court will likely support your actions.

If challenged, you need to be able to provide evidence as to when and why you made a certain decision or performed a certain act. The best way to provide evidence is to keep a contemporary record of your actions. If a legatee claims that a conversation with you never took place, it helps immensely to be able to pull out your journal and say "according to my written record we spoke on June 30 at 2pm; we discussed XXX and you said XXX". It’s doubtful that anyone else will be taking notes; the fact that you are helps establish your conscientiousness and credibility. To establish a good contemporary record, do the following:

1. Keep track of your phone calls and conversations. When you make a call, write down the details. When did you call? What did you discuss? What was the substance of the conversation? What action items resulted from the conversation?
2. Keep all the ancillary papers that you acquire in the execution of you duties; not just receipts, but bank & investment brochures, bills of sale, and repair estimates; you never know when you may need to explain why you chose a particular bank, repairman, or investment.
3. When you conduct estate business face-to-face with anyone, take notes.

Remember, executors: you don’t have to keep all the family members happy, you just have to keep the Judge of the Probate Court happy. His Honor is a busy man, and if you have kept good records, acted prudently, and kept to the schedule he will be happy.

Cruise Ship Art Auctions: An Insider's View

There is much debate surrounding cruise ship art auctions and whether or not the art sold represents a good value for the art purchaser. Some folks think that cruise ship art auctions are the spawn of the devil, and others are delighted with their experience. Reading posts on the web about cruise ship art auctions is like reading posts on politics and religion: everyone has their own opinion. Rather than join in the "fight", I thought I’d share my unique perspective on these auctions.

In 2009, I completed a six month assignment aboard three ships as an art auctioneer. I have worked as a licensed professional auctioneer and appraiser for years. As an Auctioneer, I have crossed the U.S. from Florida to Alaska, and internationally to sixteen countries from Russia to Panama. I have sold a variety of goods at auction: cars, real estate, jewelry, fine art, antiques, business assets, and estate property. I am widely experienced in auction selling formats and I have "insider information" regarding cruise ship art auctions.

Traveling the world selling art was fun, but for business reasons I have decided not to go back to sea. At this point, I am a neutral third party with nothing to gain or lose by commenting on cruise ship art auctions. I hope that my insights will prove useful to those planning to go on a cruise and attend an art auction.

So, let me get right to the point: can you confidently and comfortably purchase art on a cruise ship? Yes, you can. Plus, if you understand the process of buying art at auction, you can acquire some nice pieces and have fun doing it. My intent in this post is to give you an understanding of where folks get into trouble regarding their purchases, so that you can avoid making the same mistakes. Here is what you have to understand about cruise ship art auctions:

1. Arrive early. Showing up the minute the auction starts puts you at a disadvantage. The auction preview and the first ten minutes of the auction are important. The preview gives you time to look closely at the art and ask questions of the auctioneer and the art associates. You won't be able to ask questions during the auction. If you are not satisfied with the answers you get or the attitude of the auctioneers, then don't buy anything. If an individual who is trying to get your money is rude and pushy BEFORE they get your money, how do you think they will act AFTER they get your money? If you are happy with what you learn at the preview, you can feel comfortable bidding at the auction. The first ten minutes of the auction is when the terms and conditions of the auction sale will be explained. Don't be late, and pay attention.

2. Know what's included in your purchase. Does it come with a frame? Will it be shipped, or do you have to carry it off the ship? Is there sales tax? What about Customs charges? When can you expect delivery?

3. When in doubt, don't bid. Remember, this is an auction. You are under no compulsion to bid. Artworks have a minimum price, but no maximum price. Prices go up as the bidding progresses. A bid is a legal commitment to buy. If you overbid for an item, you have only yourself to blame.

4. Understand the difference between hammer price and final price. Hammer price is the highest bid; it is the last price offered before the auctioneer declares an item sold. If you bid $300 for a work and the auctioneer said "sold", that would be the hammer price. It is commonplace for auctioneers to add a surcharge called a "buyer’s premium" of 10 to 20 percent of the hammer price. Buyer’s Premium was instituted by the major New York and London art auction houses a couple of decades ago and is now in almost general use at all types of auctions. If the buyer’s premium was 15% and the hammer price was $300, the buyer’s premium would be $45. If you will not carry your items off the ship with you, then a shipping charge will be added; sometimes, there may be handling fees or insurance charges. If you live in the state where the auction house has a facility, there may be sales tax as well. Your formula for figuring final price in this instance is: hammer price + buyer’s premium + sales tax + shipping & handling + insurance = final price. Bid accordingly.

5. Understand what an appraisal is (and isn't). Typically, Certificates of Appraisal are offered with the artwork you buy a cruise ship. There is a charge for this service. Sometimes, a bidder gets carried away in the moment and bids more than they had planned. This happens so often at all types of auctions that there is a name for it: auction fever. These folks get home, get their bills from the cruise, and get a bad case of buyer’s remorse. When the art arrives, they take it down to their local gallery or auction house to get an "appraisal". The buyer wants to find out if they got a good deal or not. Nine times out of ten, the buyer will be told that the appraisal that came with the artwork is too high. Why is this? Two reasons. First, it's important to realize that all items -including art work- have more than one value. An artwork can hang in a gallery and be priced at $1,000. Then the gallery goes bankrupt and has a liquidation sale. The $1,000 artwork sells for $150. Retail value, liquidation value. There is also insurance value, gift tax value, auction value, fair market value, and cash value. The highest appraised value for anything is insurance value. Cruise ship art appraisals are based on insurance value, and this is stated clearly in the terms and conditions at the beginning of the auction. If an item is being insured, you have to have enough coverage. The lowest is liquidation value, sometimes called auction value. If you took your artwork to an auctioneer for his opinion, which value do you think he will give? Auction value, of course. And the owner at the retail art gallery? Retail value. Same item; six different values. Secondly, appraisal is a research job. An appraiser must support his conclusions with evidence, not just opinions. The appraisals offered with cruise ship art are backed by data from hundreds of weekly auctions and gallery sales. Appraisals just backed up by an individuals opinion are thrown out of tax court every day, regardless of the credentials of the evaluator. Have you ever seen Antiques Roadshow? When stating a value, the Roadshow experts always say something like "I believe this item could bring $XXX at auction": auction value. A thorough appraisal can take days. Don't expect that an off-the-cuff opinion by your local gallery owner or auctioneer qualifies as an appraisal.

Cruise ship art auctions are fun, and the art purchased on a cruise can give you pleasure every day that it hangs on your wall. Don't let naysayers keep you away from what could be a wonderful experience on your cruise.